AN AFTERNOON AT BACCHUS

Having opened in October, 2012, Bacchus truly radiates that sophisticated-yet-casual Southbank charm. Bacchus is luxurious, modern and chic, but with LA-based interior designer, Tracey Beckmann, behind the look and feel of the place, the result is hardly surprising but very impressive. The dark, polished wood and gleaming gold provide a sort of Parisian feel inside. Step outside, and onto the open poolside to which pops of colour come from cushions and small furnishings. I imagine that this space fills easily with gentlemen wearing Ray-Bans and women draped in colourful kaftans, all enjoying an array of sophisticated share plates, and drinks from the extensive beverages list.

With word of Bacchus’ fine cocktails in mind it was easy to feel overwhelmed by each quality option, so the waiter suggested the Aurum Tea for two - a mix of vodka, Havana Club 3 Anos, cointreau, tequila and passionfruit tea, served with Coca-cola. We were told it’s the Bacchus take on a Long Island Iced Tea, and what a refreshing take it was! The zingy yet subtle chilled passionfruit tea made the Aurum Tea perfect to enjoy as the sun peeked between rolling clouds and we waited for our food, which soon arrived.

On paper, the menu seems full of simple dishes, though they are anything but. Each dish has a solid foundation, with surprising quirks that make them memorable. Take, for example, the grilled chorizo with romesco, a dish that turned my mind’s eye on it’s head. The char-grilled chorizo, accompanied by a quenelle of velvety mashed potato, marries wonderfully with the neatly piped globes of smooth, smokey, flavoursome romesco sauce (of which they provide just enough). 

In speaking of just enough, the meatballs with capers, garlic and parmesan were well balanced. The combination of three strong, salty flavours worked well thanks to the tomato sauce atop those little meatballs. Along with the fries, these meatballs provided an intermission, of sorts, between two total stand-out dishes that represent typical Brisbane dining at it's best; that is innovative and produce-focused meals. 

Our final dish reminded me that good food means that you've enjoyed a dish so much that you wish you'd ordered two of it… and you sit back contemplating whether to order another serve. Introducing, the lamb chips with gribiche mayonnaise. They were too intriguing to resist, almost too good to share, and definitely left me wanting more. But, lamb chips? I had to ask too, so let me explain. Lamb chips are sticks of slow-cooked lamb, encased in crispy golden shells which are accompanied by a tangy gribiche mayonnaise. I was briefly reminded of eating fish fingers with tartare sauce as a kid, but it's fair to say that lamb chips are far superior and definitely more age-appropriate. 

Bacchus' innovative yet simple style is reflected throughout each aspect of the restaurant and injected into the menu, and this place is sure to grow more and more comfortable in its ever-developing skin that is Southbank.

Bacchus
Cnr Grey & Glenleg Streets
Southbank, Queensland


Note: Ell & guest were hosted by Bacchus for this experience.

THE GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA

The Grounds of Alexandria

I have been anticipating a trip to this quirky little place for so, so long now! On the way to Alexandria, Sydney, around 5% of me was hoping that my bouncing/over-the-top excitement wouldn't be struck down with disappointment. It certainly wasn't. As we entered under iron-arches, I skipped through the garden like all of the other three-year-olds wandering around. (It's fair to say that Mum's like The Grounds too.) There was a chicken run with clucking chooks; gardens overflowing with herbs; the tallest and most charming sweet-pea bush; and a beautiful, big wood-fired oven. What was once an old pie factory is now one of Sydney's most popular cafes. I can't tell you about the coffee because I'm part of the 0.002% of people who don't drink it, but the food exceeded all of my expectations.

The breakfast menu has everything from Turkish sausages to spiced granola. The breakfast board ($20) was stacked with ciabatta, eggs, avocado, shaved leg-ham, house-made pesto, sweet little cherry tomatoes and a solid helping of luscious Persian feta. The pesto was fresh and lively - totally delicious and worth every cent. Whenever I get a chance to order sweet over savoury, I take it with both hands and treasure it. For the sweet-toothed diners, like myself, the French toast was unbeatable. Cooked perfectly with a crisp outside, each slice was accompanied by zingy roast rhubarb and a subtly sweet lemon mascarpone. The ratio of toast:rhubarb:mascarpone could not have been more perfect for my liking. (I'm a tad obsessed with perfect ratio!) Having noticed that my breakfast was only $13, I was expecting a meal less than half the size that it was. It was just great to get real value for money, but I would definitely pay a few dollars more for that.

The Grounds was plagued with high-heel wearing, Dior-bag-carrying women, men wearing Ralph Lauren shirts, and trendy mothers' groups, but I can see why everyone flocks to it! The Grounds is so refreshingly real. 

EAT

Black Pearl Epicure
36 Baxter St, Fortitude Valley
(07) 3257 2144

Black Pearl is one of those places that you walk in to and immediately know it's down to business. Expertise and a passion for the fine ingredients wafts throughout the whole place. As a foodie, my mind is immediately set racing as I try to register every jar, can, utensil and packet. It's quite exotic and, soon, my mind floods with recipe ideas.

Shelves abound with truffle oil, salsa verde, preserved lemon, snails in brine, fregola, elderflower cordial, sherry vinegar and  Lescure butter. All sounds very posh, doesn't it? I suppose it is a little, but it's intriguing and new. Sometimes we all need something like that.

EAT

The Upfront Club
31 Maple Street, Maleny


AT 10am on a Monday the main street of Maleny is (surprisingly) busy, which makes it hard to find a table for breakfast. The Upfront Club draws a crowd for breakfast; some hide, entrenched in a newspaper, others pay attention to their loyal pooches and the others can be seen having a laugh over mugs of frothed up beverages.


Having waded through the bustling cafe, we found a cosy table right next to the kitchen (hooray!) and opened up the menu to find a wide range of simple breakfasts. Josh opts for a Bacon & Egg Sandwich on Turkish Bread but my sweet tooth just cannot be denied. It was the French Toast with Banana and Maple Syrup for me!


Our meals soon arrived and somehow relieved us (or our minds, at least,) of the chill in the air. My eyes almost popped out of my head when I saw the size of the meal and the lovely old waiter asked, "Who is having this big one?!". I replied with a raised hand and an unsure smile.


Josh wolfed his breakfast down after helping me peel each banana half from its skin. (I'm glad the napkins were big.) I cut up my 'narnies', shared them out atop the caramelised slices of french toast and slathered it all in a good helping of maple syrup. Must say, the ratio of banana to bread was absolutely spot on and I even had maple syrup left over. (Not much, but there was some.)


Sometimes I find that french toast can be soggy, sweaty and over-spiced but this was crispy on the outside and cooked perfectly right the way through. The cinnamon was there, but barely, and the bananas were grilled to a soft, sweetened state. The maple syrup glued it all together and left me with a full tummy and most importantly, a happy sweet tooth.

EAT

 

Appetito - The Rocks, Sydney


WALK past and Appetito looks like the cosiest, warmest, most down to earth place on the block. There is a short line to enter but our seat is secured and we fit in like puzzle pieces - it's busy.


The table next to us are enjoying a beautiful antipasto platter, complete with some amazing crusty bread, but we opt for the Gamberi pizza and the Pea and Taleggio risotto (a special on this night). We were soaking up the warm atmosphere and thanking our lucky stars that we arrived early to snag a table when our meals arrived. The huge pizza seemed to skim the hallway walls as the waitress avoided other diners. Luckily its crust was thin, and we all know what that means... more room in our tummies! Everybody around us finished their pizzas and seemed to have really enjoyed it. The pizza cost around $27, which, considering the size and ingredients, is quite reasonable.


Upon ordering my risotto I was advised that it would be cooked al dente, and that is was. I could eat a bowl of baby peas every day (and sometimes I do) so I found this to be a nice, simple meal. The peas were sweet and fresh and the taleggio was the perfect cheese accompaniment; like two peas in a pod! Upon arrival at our table, all I could smell was that fragrant cheese but the first mouthful dismissed any doubts I had regarding flavour balance. I'm not a huge seasoner, but this dish really did benefit from a generous pinch of salt and a sprinkling of black pepper.


The atmosphere was warm and quite romantic. The dim lighting may benefit from being a tiny bit brighter as the food is so rustic and beautiful and each table has a lovely fresh flower in a vase. It's nice to dine at a place where such simple food is obviously valued by the staff and customers. I love this simple way of cooking and eating; you can expect a pea risotto recipe soon!


I'm thinking, 3.5/5

EAT

WITH the Harbour Bridge to my left and the Opera House to my right it was reasonable to wonder how much better the night could get. Seeing stars already, we opted for the four course menu which offers five meals in each course. You can drool over each meal here. The menu features a range of seafood and non-seafood dishes but one thing they all have in common is the genius flavour combinations. 

The mudcrab congee with egg yolk emulsion was unlike any other congee and the roasted pink snapper with ginger scented milk curd and an oyster and seaweed consommé was such a textural eye-opener. They both scored ticks in the favourite box. Oh, who am I kidding, everything did! There is such knowledge and passion embodied in each dish.

Quay puts things like squab, partridge breast and pig jowl on a pedestal so picky eaters should come to dine with an 'I'll give it a go' attitude; it is definitely worth it. The roasted partridge breast comes with a cloud-like steamed truffle brioche and is an amazingly gamey, rich dish. I have never come across white walnuts before but they were the final puzzle piece to this course. It was such a delicate yet rich little dish. The Berkshire pig jowl, also slightly out of the comfort zone, is almost like pork belly but with much less fat. The meat is tender and juicy and the maltose crackling resembles bubbling glass. This subtly sweet dish is served with a smooth cauliflower cream and the plumpest prunes I have ever seen. It is wonderful how certain aspects of Quay's meals are showcased in a whole new light.

In speaking of a showcase, it is time for dessert. (The course I am always most excited for.) The snow egg is presented first and we are informed of chef's recommendation to gently tap the top of the 'egg' and listen for the crack of the paper-thin toffee shell. 


A chic, sculptured chocolate cake appears in front of me and its centre magically melts away as the waiter trickles an almost black chocolate sauce on top. I pick up my fork feeling like a child who has just been given the biggest bag of lollies. Ever.

I break my fork through the chocolate cake and hear the chocolate casing crack before my fork slides into the creamy layers and hits a crunch at the bottom. The cake actually melts away in your mouth as you taste each layer and chew on the crumby base. Luckily we were going halves in desserts because this eight layer chocolate cake was far too rich to polish off by myself. The warm sauce was beautiful with the cake but I made the mistake of scooping some up by itself and received a hit of total bitterness, similar to Vegemite. I finish the 'big half' and excitedly slide the refreshing snow egg close enough to see every sparkling icicle.

The spine-tingling tap on top of the snow egg echoes from our table and has us sniggering excitedly. The soft, marshmallowy meringue 'egg white' encases a beautifully smooth strawberry ice-cream 'yolk' which adds a sweet element to the lively guava. Sliding a spoon around the glass to pick up some icy, refreshing granita evokes memories of adventurous treks through fresh snow. There are some swirls of luxurious double cream in the bottom of the glass which brings a velvety smooth texture to the icy dish. The fruity guava granita was somewhat surprising in that it wasn't at all as bitter or sour as the fruit can often be. Smart desserts with such simple flavours is exactly what is needed following a meal so full in flavour. We finish every last millilitre of the guava granita and luxurious cream.

Every meal was so beautifully rich and satisfying and the service truly completed our experience at Quay. It's nice not to have to request anything because you've simply been offered and served everything at the right time - without being smothered or interrupted by wait staff. If this is the food standard now, I cannot wait to see what industry leaders like Peter Gilmore are doing in five years time.

Definitely a 5/5.

EAT

Adriano Zumbo's Dessert Train, Star City, 

IT was a cold, miserable day and there was a line up for the dessert train - but we were at the front of it!

We took our seat and watched the little train carry plates of sweet goodness around before grabbing a Violet Crunchie and a Pineapple and Mint Splice. The Violet Crunchie was a mousse dish; light as a feather and somehow tastes exactly like a violet crunchie even though the only real chocolate on there is that little square. Divine. The splice was a total refresher, soft juicy cubes of pineapple dot the mint syrup which is soaking into the crumbs. The pineapple foam was total bliss, it just kind of evaporates in your mouth. It doesn't melt, it just goes away, but somehow you're left with that beautiful pineapple taste.

The next dessert pulled off a carriage was the little cherry delight. I forget what it was called but I like to think of it as a deconstructed cherry macaroon. The bottom layer was a coconut paste with some cherry coulis and an Italian meringue piped on top. It was so good I forgot I was eating (basically) raw egg white. Next course!

Watermelon Yoghurt. That was a no go for me. Watermelon makes my ears itchy and the yoghurt was super sour. It looked super pretty with the foam though. So, onto the next plate which was probably my favourite. 

It was a beautiful Hazelnut Dacquoise which is basically a fudgey, wafer-like biscuit. It tasted a like nutella but nowhere near as sweet and the hazelnut was far more prevalent. The overall texture of the dacquoise was amazing and the hazelnut cream next to it was so super smooth and silky. I enjoyed that perfect, crunchy little hazelnut at the end.

The macarons. Hmm. I hope to think I was just expecting something mind-blowingly amazing because, honestly, I was disappointed. I also like to hope my disappointment is due to the fact that my 'first choice' flavours were sold out, but the logical side of my brain says no. I ordered two buttered popcorn macarons, one cream bun macaron and one passionfruit macaron. Each had a really beautiful flavour which was totally spot on but the macarons were, well, dry. The cream in the centre was silky but those shells were dry and crumbly (not to be confused with crackly, as they should be). That beautiful, sticky, almond-rich chewiness that macarons usually embody was non-existent. I hope my macarons just came from a bad batch. 

All in all, a delicious experience and one I would go back for (with the hope of chewy macarons).

EAT

I was drawn in, hesitantly at first, by the fact that I could get a sandwich and cup of soup for $9.95. I thought it was a great deal but wondered (perhaps cynically,) whether that was all the meal would be worth. Would it be some wholemeal sandwich stained with the sogginess of day-old tomatoes drowned in way too much mayonnaise? Would it be a Subway kind of place where the bread is the only good thing? Would there only be a watery chicken noodle soup on the menu? Let me tell you just how pleasantly surprised I was...

Dannyboy's is an American-style, two-story joint with a menu that soars above you as you walk in. Place your order and walk further inside to wait to for it and you'll see the bread, made of only 5 ingredients, being pulled out of the oven and filled with whatever you've chosen. It's not fancy bread, but gosh it is good! It has this chewy golden crust with a soft centre that resembles puff pastry. Pull it apart and the scent of warm bread clouds your nostrils as it stretches beautifully to reveal layers, just like puff pastry. This heavenly bread is universal at Dannyboy's; it's used for the sandwiches and when you order a soup, you also get a piece. Now, the cup of soup may seem to be a small serving but it is filling enough with that perfect portion of bread. I'm serious about ratios in my food so when I mopped up the last of my soup with the last of my bread, I was impressed. 

I always order the Broccoli and Cheddar Soup with a BLT while Josh orders the Roasted Vine Tomato Soup with his BLT. The tomato soup is so refreshing and rich - perfect for winter. It has this little zingy hit that comes from the addition of balsamic vinegar. Such sophisticated flavours work really well together because there is just the right amount of balsamic in there to balance out the tomato. 

The broccoli and cheddar soup came as a big surprise to me. See, I don't actually eat the stalks of my broccoli... I only like the 'leaves'. But I had heard good things about this soup so the only thing I was unsure of was getting the little leaves stuck in my teeth! Just so you know, I didn't, but I forgot about my teeth when I tasted it anyway! The broccoli is definitely there but its flavour shines in a whole new light when paired with cheddar. The cheese definitely takes over but the broccoli gives that subtle 'green' flavour which cuts through the sometimes tangy cheddar flavour. The soups are well-seasoned, amazingly rich and full of flavour! 

The soup is a definite winner with me but I thought both combinations were brave menu options - especially considering that Dannyboy's is located in the student village at Kelvin Grove. (C'mon, students and broccoli?) All credit to the little sandwich bar, though. These brave options have really paid off. The girls at a table next to us had bowls of soup and all I could hear is "yummmmm!", "O-M-G, this is yummy" and "it's so rich, but so good!". (The last girl seemed a little more food-literate than the others.) Point being, the soup at Dannyboy's is good and I'm not the only one who thinks so.

Now, onto main course. Taking into account my ratio obsession, I looked at the BLT with all that lettuce and thought 'oh no, everything must match up'. I took the first bite and was once again pleasantly surprised because there is just the right amount of everything! Besides that amazingly stretchy bread, the point of difference in this BLT is that it comes loaded with, what seems to be, bacon jerky. It's really quite good. You get flakey, real, salty bacon in every bite and it really brings the shredded iceberg lettuce to life. It is also a very smart ingredient in that, this dried bacon means the rest of the sandwich doesn't go soggy because of any fat or heat. The salty bacon is complimented by the tomato and then bought back down to earth by the mayonnaise. It's a really fantastic twist on the bacon, lettuce and tomato combo that seems to occupy the menu at every cafe and sandwich bar.

The fact that I've been to Dannyboy's pretty much once a week for over a month kind of says it is good. It's an original little place where you are greeted with a big smile from staff and always thanked for coming as you leave. You'll take one look at its decor and realise that it's this cool, young place but its menu options signal a sophisticated, fresh establishment that has really thought about their food. The staff here take pride in their food and always serve quality quickly. Lesson learned? Never underestimate a good bargain!

Dannyboy's

Shop 3, 88 Musk Ave, Kelvin Grove

Price range: $3.95 - $13.95

EAT

Ortiga

A mere two years old and this restaurant has already been hailed as Brisbane's best - but not just by locals. Australian Gourmet Traveller last year awarded this luxurious yet rustic restaurant the title after discovering its Spanish delights. And what delights they are...

From the street, you see the warm light reflecting dimly off all the ballooned wine glasses that hang from the ceiling and magnify the red brick. Once you've finished your first drink and a small tasting plate of preserved meats, you move downstairs to dine. (Yes, double the Ortiga!)

Down here, you realise the value of a crisp, white tablecloth and polished silver cutlery. Be seated at your table against the exposed brick wall and dream that one day you will live here, right next to the (full) wine rack and cellars which take up a whole wall. Sigh.

Having stroked the brick long enough and watched, with starry eyes, the chefs move around the kitchen casually, the waitress decides it's time to interrupt my blossoming love affair. A beautiful menu, full of white space (hooray) is presented to us.

We all take one look before looking back at our waitress who proceeds to tell us, in her Spanish accent, all about the menu which was (of course,) written in Spanish. Each meal is explained to us and we are ready to order... everything. But self control kicks in and we decide on the dishes, not knowing we will crave them in a couple of weeks time.

It is not long until the croquetas arrive and, at $3.50 a serve, they are an immediate favourite. We may or may not have ordered 3 more servings as soon as we finished the first. But those crispy, deep fried parcels of cheesy love only signals the beginning. 

Romesco sauce with fried vegetables is the next order. Out comes a beautiful salad of rocket, green and white asparagus and beautifully light, fried zucchini flowers, all sitting atop a wonderfully rich orange sauce. Whoever thought of using pasta sauce as a salad dressing is obviously a genius!

We decide a break and another glass of white wine is needed as we sit, again, marvelling at the place and watching the chefs prepare our food. A huge rib eye on the bone catches our eye as it is whipped from the grill to rest. After a while, a chef begins to slice the steak and the blushed pink flesh is revealed to somewhat of an audience who all seem keen to get a slice. It's not ours, but our next course is not far behind.

We've ordered the famous Arroz Caldoso de Marisco (a kind of seafood soup with rice) and the so very amazing, slow cooked lamb shoulder with patatas lo pore and lemon puree. My gosh. The waitress explains how the lamb was cooked but it is going in one ear and out the other. We are transfixed, watching her use a spoon and a fork to peel the meat from the bone. It shreds and falls apart with the slightest touch and that roast lamb smell illuminates the table when it meets the tang of the lemon sauce. 

After some meals I want dessert just to top it off, but at Ortiga our dining experience was topped off after the entree. It is magical, heart-warming, tastebud-pleasing food.

Ortiga

446 Brunswick Street

Fortitude Valley

EAT

Photographs by Ell.


Sottiles Cafe in Ashgrove is a place I have found to be a delight. Surrounded by trendy shops and a fresh fruit & vegetable shop, this establishment has a very modern but casual atmosphere. They serve Italian food of a delicious standard and I'm told the coffee is great too. The service was fast and simple, we got what we needed when we wanted it.


The prices are very reasonable, averaging $15 - $25 per meal. I'm sure many other places would be charging much more than $14.50 for such an amazing duck and mushroom risotto! It is more of an entree size but trust me, you don't need much more of such a rich and filling dish. (I took Josh, le boyfriend, along and this dish was filling for him!) That fresh, vibrant herb oil is a nice addition that cuts through the richness. Each serving has a generous amount of duck that has been braised so well it literally just melts in the mouth. Unlike other risotto's I have had, the rice is not gluggy at all - each grain sits separately from the others and is cooked to bouncy perfection.


The pizzas also seem to be great size, each topped with simple flavours that make an impact. Josh had the pizza on our second visit, I'm told you can really tell they are wood-fired. We agree that this flavour always adds to the genuine Italian-ness of pizza.


Often I find myself craving the risotto and, lets face it, who doesn't love Italian? Yep, sometimes you just need to take a trip to Sottiles. How unfortunate!


Score: 4/5 (Simply because I haven't ventured from the duck risotto!!)
Address: 1/10 Stewart Road, Ashgrove, QLD 4060